One key part of gaining a complete understanding of reionization is the when - precisely when did it begin and end, and how rapidly? There are a few main methods for probing these transition points, all of which suggest the process occurred early on, with a midpoint at roughly redshift z ~ 8 (600 million years after the Big Bang) and an endpoint somewhere around z ~ 5.5–6 (1 billion years after the Big Bang). The ionizing radiation kicked out electrons from neutral hydrogen atoms until eventually most of the gas in the universe became ionized. Then, as the first stars, galaxies, and quasars began to form and started shining, these objects emitted high-energy photons that ionized the neutral gas around them. However, we do have the basics of the why down: before the epoch of reionization, the universe was mostly filled with neutral hydrogen gas. While shining a light on the history of reionization would also help uncover the history of how objects in the universe emerged and grew, this epoch is fundamentally dark. This final phase transition of the universe from neutral to ionized encompasses a variety of dramatic changes, as large-scale structures formed and evolved and the first stars and galaxies began to light up the universe. The who, what, when, and where of reionization are unresolved questions that have important implications for our understanding of the cosmos. Title: Long Dark Gaps in the Lyβ Forest at z<6: Evidence of Ultra Late Reionization from XQR-30 Spectraįirst Author’s Institution: University of California, Riverside We hope you enjoy this post from astrobites the original can be viewed at. As part of the partnership between the AAS and astrobites, we occasionally repost astrobites content here at AAS Nova. It’s actually a really simple build.Editor’s Note: Astrobites is a graduate-student-run organization that digests astrophysical literature for undergraduate students. We like these because they’re slim, and easy to mount and “disappear” on set. You’ll need the added power if you want to make these rigs for the Quasar Cross-fades.īanana Tap Extension Cord (QTY 1) - You can use pretty much any multi-outlet extension cord. The variable speed controllers can withstand up to 15 amps.
Most of your standard home light dimmers are only two-prong and can withstand about 4amps of power. Wing Nut (QTY 4) - We use these instead of any type of lock-nut so that you can adjust your mounts for added creativity.ĭimmer (QTY 1) - You can get a couple different versions, but honestly the best dimmer you can get is a variable speed control most often used for commercial fans.
Also, they allow for easier adjustment with the wing-nut below. Sealing Washer (QTY 4) - These unique washers have a composite material on their flush side that will “catch” a screw as you thread it through making assembly easier. Also, you can literally screw these into the wall and mount lights as wellġ/8” or M4 flat-head screws (QTY 4) - The big thing here is to make sure that screw is long enough and can fit through the hold in the T8 or T-12 clip T8 or T12 LED Mounting Clip (QTY 4) - These are the actual clips that will secure your LED tubes into the mount. Our Quasar Science Mount Buildįor each mount you make you’ll need the following:īaby Pin Wall Plate (QTY 1) - You have a few different options here, but we recommend going with at least a six-inch straight baby pin mount.
Also, it’s dirt cheap compared to official solutions and should help fill the void while more grip-tool companies bring out their professional solutions. Our DIY rig is simple, flexible, and integrates into most of your production workflows seamlessly. However, with their newness the accessory side of the LED tube business hasn’t matured, at least in a competitive manner.